Journeying through the Scottish Highlands combines historical sites with contemporary attractions, while also featuring distilleries and the cryptic Loch Ness Monster.
Trekking through the picturesque Scottish countryside, I saunter into a past that mingles with the present. The lush, verdant fields still hold relics of a bygone era, replete with barley, rapeseed, and herds of woolly sheep. A millennium of agricultural cycles seemed untampered, yet, as my guide Cath Findlay points out, a shift occurred just a few decades ago.
In the tumultuous 100 years of the Highland Clearance, ambitious landowners displaced most of the tenants in a brutal show of power. These crofters, replaced by lucrative flocks of sheep, found themselves unwelcome on their very own soil. The British government, enmeshed in global conflicts, prioritized the need for wool and meat over its people. And so, the rugged, undulating landscape we witness today bears witness to this bleak chapter in Scottish history.
To my surprise, Inverness—the bustling hub of the Highlands—embodies a melding of the past and the present. Known for its mystical monster hunters attracted by the Loch Ness legend, it has now forged an international identity, transcending whiskey, tartan plaid, and the allure of Nessie.
The town center is a warren of cobblestone streets that can be traversed in a brisk 15 minutes. Overlooking a cliff at one end, the crimson Inverness Castle, shrouded in scaffolding, will soon undergo renovations to be converted into an interactive attraction. Bellowing its tales to the heart of the town, the Victorian Market has been reinvigorated with an abundance of shops, cafes, and award-winning eateries.
Behind the refurbished Victorian Market lies a new food hall that has become a gastronomic paradise. Local favorites like Bad Girls Bakery, The Redshank, Ollie’s Pops, Salt N Fire, and more attract nearly 75,000 visitors during peak weeks — a number rivaling the city's total population.
Life thunderously drums through the core of the town, a stark contrast to its past. At The Walrus and Corkscrew wine bar and Black Isle Bar, patrons indulge in hearty wood-fired pizzas and organic brews that meld seamlessly with the town's rich history.
For a story with every meal, visit the Downright Gabbler guesthouse nestled in the picturesque village of Beauly. Garry Coutts, their full-time storyteller, holds several themed events tracing the region’s history through scrumptious dishes. One such event is the Highland Banquet, where six courses retell the story of the people from prehistoric times to modern day. There, I indulged in venison carpaccio with pickled blackberries, inspired by the hunting days when they relied less on deer and more on seafood.
As I roamed through this resilient land, the echoes of the past lingered, forever embedded in the fabric of its people and its landscape. The ghosts lingered not in sorrow, but as a testament to Scotland's indomitable spirit that refuses to be forgotten.
- In the heart of Inverness, amidst cobblestone streets, nestles a revitalized Victorian Market with numerous shops, cafes, and eateries that have drawn over 75,000 visitors during peak weeks.
- At The Walrus and Corkscrew wine bar and Black Isle Bar in the town center, patrons enjoy hearty wood-fired pizzas and organic brews, their gastronomic journey seamlessly intertwined with the town's rich historical backdrop.
- For an immersive experience in Scottish lifestyle and history, one can visit the Downright Gabbler guesthouse in Beauly, where full-time storyteller Garry Coutts hosts themed events like the Highland Banquet, featuring six courses that narrate the region's history through scrumptious dishes.
- Reminiscent of prehistoric times, venison carpaccio with pickled blackberries served at the Highland Banquet, echoes the hunting days when inhabitants relied less on deer and more on seafood.
- As I traveled through vibrant Toronto cafes, news headlines discussed a proposal by the government to convert historical buildings into interactive attractions, inviting travelers to immerse themselves in the city's captivating lifestyle and rich prehistory.
