Exploring Soviet Influence: Must-Visit Spots in Kolkata Reminiscent of the USSR
In the heart of India, Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) offers a unique blend of history, culture, and a fascinating Soviet connection that lingers in its corners.
Over two centuries ago, Gerasim Stepanovich Lebedev staged the Bengali adaptation of Richard Jodrell's play, The Disguise, believed to be the first proscenium performance in Bengali. Lebedev's theatre, located at 37 Ezra Street, was a pioneer in casting both male and female Indian actors during a time when only male Europeans took the stage.
Fast forward to the mid-20th century, and Kolkata's political history was strongly marked by leftist ideologies influenced by Soviet Marxism. This era left subtle architectural influences, such as Brutalist style buildings, a style associated with Soviet-era architecture elsewhere. However, iconic Soviet monuments like those in Russia or Eastern Europe are not prominent here.
Remnants of this Soviet past can be found in the city's older quarters. Manisha Granthalay, a quiet archive of Soviet-era books and publications, and Gorky Sadan, the Russian Cultural Centre, are hidden gems waiting to be rediscovered. Fragments of a shared past also linger at Gorky Sadan, featuring photo exhibitions, the Alekhine Chess Club, and screenings of Russian films.
The city's Soviet connection also extends to its cuisine. Chicken a la Kiev, or Chicken Kyiv, has found a second home in Kolkata, with establishments like Mocambo and Trincas serving the dish.
Another significant aspect of Kolkata's Soviet past is its transportation system. The city was the first Indian city to have an underground transit system, known as the Metro. Construction of the Metro began in the 1970s and was influenced by Soviet and East German engineers. A pioneering tunnel is being carved beneath the Hooghly River for the Metro, with a Russian company among the partners.
One of the most iconic symbols of Kolkata's Soviet past is Lenin's statue, located at Curzon Park, Dharmatala, one of the city's busiest intersections. Despite Lenin's memory fading in Russia, his statue remains firmly rooted in Kolkata. Around it, people gather, share food, children play, and impromptu protests occur.
Recently, citizens assembled at Dharmatala to oppose the felling of century-old trees, demonstrating the city's commitment to preserving its heritage.
In summary, Kolkata’s Soviet past survives mainly through cultural memory, political history, and subtle architectural influences rather than explicit, preserved Soviet buildings or monuments. Direct Soviet relics are scarce or not widely documented among Kolkata’s heritage sites. Yet, the city continues to celebrate and preserve its Soviet connection in unique and intriguing ways.
In the realm of literature and publishing, Manisha Granthalay, an archival treasure trove of Soviet-era books and publications, mirrors Kolkata's enduring historical and cultural ties with the region. During leisurely moments, explorers of home-and-garden and lifestyle can traverse the globe to find forgotten nooks like Gorky Sadan, a Russian Cultural Centre, offering glimpses of Kolkata's unique Soviet past through its exhibitions, chess club, and cinematic screenings. Additionally, when craving a delectable taste of Soviet influence, one need only visit Mocambo or Trincas for a bite of Chicken a la Kiev, a culinary gem imported from the USSR.
